C22 Launch Prep

Launch for the little boat is Friday June 4th (two days away).

Time to paint the bottom, clean and wax the hull, and remove the cover!

Notice that the pop top and companionway boards and trim are removed.
They are home in the garage for a refurb.

Took all day, but she cleaned up nicely and is ready for launch.

CS34 Engine Sound Insulation

While I had the cooling and fuel systems apart, I decided to address the 30 year old engine bay sound insulation.

I purchased some replacement foil backed rubber sound insulation from Holland Marine Products.

I took the companionway stairs and the engine cover home to work on it.

Here is the engine cover:

As you can see the old insulation was disintegrating.
Came off easily with a scraper.

Much easier to do at home instead of the cramped space inside the boat!

Then onto the companionway steps:

The foil backed rubber mat was easy to cut with a straight edge and a utility knife:

Attached the material using spray upholstery glue:

Also replaced the foam inside the engine bay.

The cost was $120.

I think this will make a difference with sound and heat from the motor.

MUMM36 ZAMBONI Bowsprit

 ZAMBONI has several spinnakers and we have names for each of them: 

• Aloha (fractional std pole)
• Evolution (fractional std pole)
• Big Blue (fractional oversized pole)
• Franchenchute (masthead oversized pole)
• Tiffany (asym masthead)
• CODE 0 (asym masthead)

We have two poles

• standard length carbon (very light)
• oversized pole (15% longer and heavy)

Everytime we fly any asym chutes, we have to rig the longer pole, lash it to the deck, and run a tack line back.  PITA, so we usually don't bother with them.

It was time to design and fabricate a bowsprit.
We designed it so that the distance from the forestay attachment point and the tack is the same as the length of the oversized spin pole so that we don't take a handicap hit.

We thought about doing a single pole on deck out the front:

This is a unit that Mike had purchased on Kijiji for his boat.
We both agreed that this will make foredeck work (headsail peels) difficult.

Here is Mike evaluating our options:

I worked with a friend Brent from Razorbill in Whitby to come up with a jig to fabricate it.

Mike and I made a pattern of the bow using plywood to make the jig.

Brent is a high school shop teacher and was able to cut the aluminum pipe fairly quickly.  The cost of the 1 1/2" schedule 60 aluminum pipe was $60.  We purchased the pre-bent round section on Amazon for $20.

Had it welded up by a shop in Bowmanville:

How were we going to attach it to the bow?
Why on ZAMBONI, we used modified hockey pucks:

Dry fitting

Here you can see how the pad eyes will be through bolted:

Note the drain holes

Then it was off for powdercoating:

The cost for powdercoating was $80 cash.

The sprit is supported with a 1/4" dynema strop to a ring on the bow:

This forged ring is through bolted to the structure for the forestay attachment.

Splicing dynema strop

I would say it turned out pretty well:

The 3/8" stainless bolts go through about 1/2" of solid fiberglass and are back up with oversized fender washers on the inside of the bow.

We have used it several times, and it just doesn't move!

The total cost was about $500.

CS34 Clean and Wax Hull

With launch 3 weeks away, time to get the hull cleaned and waxed for the 2021 season.

Still Time is located under some large willow trees by the clubhouse.  The trees are messy, and drop all kinds of leaves, buds, and sap which stains the deck.  I like to leave the cover on until the last minute.

So, I lifted the cover on deck to clean and wax her.

Moved the boom and bimini frame over to the fence so it is not in the way for bottom paining and actual launch.

Then dropped the cover back down:

I would paint the bottom in the coming weeks (leaving the cover on).

If you are a sailor on Lake Ontario, you know what these are:

CS34 Impeller Change

When de-winterizing the CS34 this year, I had trouble getting water to go into engine to displace the antifeeze put in last fall.

Had the boat for 9 seasons, and never had a problem.
Time to look at the impeller.

Removed the raw water pump and took it home to look at:

The fins were jammed in the outlet

Luckily I was able to recover all broken off fins.

Also took the time to flush and replace the cooling system antifreeze.

I have not touched this system in the 9 years I have had the boat.

For $30 for impeller, probably should check it yearly.

I also replaced the thermostat while I had the system apart.

UPDATE

This definately solved the white smoke in the exhaust issue

http://svstilltime.blogspot.com/2021/09/mumm36-zamboni-wed-race-night.html

MUMM36 ZAMBONI LED Cabin Lights

In looking info the electricity consumption our our race boat, I turned my attention to the cabin lights.

There are two cabin lights on port and starboard that look nice and function as they should:

However, each of these fixtures have 3 incandescent festoon bulbs in them that each use 2 amps of current!  Several of the bulbs were burnt out, and the ones that worked got hot to the touch.

So you turn a cabin light on at night, and get blinded by white light drawing 6amps from the battery!

Looked into getting LED festoon bulbs, but they were $29 each.  Ended up ordering some replacement LED fixtures from the local chandlery for $60 each.

Phil and I used heat shrink crimps to put them in.

They turned out great!

white light

red light

Now the fixtures only draw like 0.04 amps when on.

 

CS34 Fuel System

In the 9 season I have had the CS34, I have not touched the fuel system other than to get the fuel polished in maybe 2015.

Last season, I found that the exhaust had tons of white/grey smoke, plus really smelt from unburnt fuel when underway.

Decided to take the injectors out and have them serviced.
Took them to Steve's Diesel in Bowmanville.
They cleaned them for the fee of $20 cash.

white tape is the aft injector

Little bit of carbon buildup.

Was fairly easy to remove and install.

Also decided to replace the filters.
The one on the engine was a little dark.
The Racor primary filter (also water separator) was filthy.
Definately had water in the fuel.

Just look at the junk in the fuel just from draining the filters.

Bleeding the fuel system was pretty easy.
Could not do it with the manual lift pump.
Used the priming pump on the Racor filter made quick work of it.

This solved the engine smoking/smelling problem.

UPDATE: 

Definately solved the smelly unburnt diesel smell when motoring.
However, the white smoke in the exhaust was definately caused poor coolant flow during to the impeller.

http://svstilltime.blogspot.com/2021/05/cs34-impeller-change.html

http://svstilltime.blogspot.com/2021/09/mumm36-zamboni-wed-race-night.html